Past Symposia:

At Home on the Range

6th Annual Foodways Texas Symposium

The University of Texas
April 7-9, 2016
Austin, Texas

Join us for our 6th annual Foodways Texas symposium, “At Home on the Range,” where we will explore the relationship between food, identity, and gender roles in our home state of Texas. Baking and barbecue, home cooking and professional kitchens, cowboys and chili queens– each of these pairs demonstrate the range of masculine and feminine relationships to food. The hidden histories of cookbooks, San Antonio chili queens, Czech home kitchens, and women pitmasters are just a few of the topics we will explore at this year’s symposium. We will hear from chefs, scholars, food writers, and entrepreneurs about the ways in which gender influenced the personal histories and major industries of the state. Join us as we delve into the intersections of gender and foodways in Texas!

In addition to our panel and speaker sessions, six meals are included in your registration. All meals will be prepared by chefs, artisans, and restaurants from around the state and in line with our theme. “At Home on the Range” will take place on and around the University of Texas, Austin campus.

See y’all in Austin!

2016 Foodways Texas Symposium Schedule

Thursday, April 7
Last Stand Brewing Company (12345 Pauls Valley Rd, Austin, TX 78737)

6:30 pm
Registration & Happy Hour

7:00 pm
Marvin Bendele, Foodways Texas Executive Director, Austin

7:30 pm
Spring Camp Cookout
John Russ, Luke, San Antonio
Last Stand Brewing Company, Dripping Springs
Revolution Spirits Distilling Company, Dripping Springs

Friday, April 8
Harry Ransom Center, University of Texas (300 W 21st St, Austin, TX 78712)

9:00 am
Coffee and a Danish Breakfast
Confituras, Austin
Empire Baking Company, Dallas
Salt and Time, Austin
Casa Brasil Coffees, Austin

10:00 am
At Home on the Range
Marvin Bendele, Foodways Texas Executive Director, Austin

10:15 am
Texas Cookbook Stories
Moderator: Addie Broyles, Austin American Statesman, Austin
Lisa Fain, Homesick Texan, New York
Kate Payne, Writer and Cooking Instructor, Austin
Kelly Yandell, Writer, Dallas

11:15 am
The Critic’s Perspective
Moderator: Jessica Dupuy, Writer, Austin
Pat Sharpe, Editor, Texas Monthly, Austin
Greg Morago, Editor, Houston Chronicle, Houston

12:00 pm
Les Dames D’Escoffier Dallas Presidential Fellowship
Steven Hoelscher, American Studies Chair, University of Texas, Austin

Foodways Texas, 2016-17
Robert Lerma, Foodways Texas Advisory Board President, Austin
Kelly Yandell, Foodways Texas Advisory Board Vice President, Dallas

12:30 pm
Lunch with Helen
Bespoke Food, Austin

2:30 pm
Helen Corbitt Retrospective
Prudence Mackintosh, Writer, Dallas

3:00 pm
The Flowing Bowl: Nineteenth Century Punch
Kerry Knerr, University of Texas, Austin

3:30 pm
Women and Food in Carceral Spaces
Elissa Underwood, University of Texas, Austin

4:15 pm
Lifetime Achievement Award Presentation
Marvin Bendele, Foodways Texas Executive Director, Austin

Tecolote Farm (16301 Decker Lake Rd, Manor, TX 78653)
7:30 pm
Farm Boil
Jim Gossen, Louisiana Seafood, Houston
Salt and Time, Austin
Saint Arnold Brewing Company, Houston
Pedernales Cellars, Stonewall

Saturday, April 9
Marchesa Hall and Theater (6226 Middle Fiskville Rd., Austin, TX, 78752)

9:00 am
Biscuits and Gravy Breakfast
Adrian Lipscombe, Knotty Nice Bakery, Austin
Casa Brasil Coffees, Austin

10:00 am
Gender Roles in Czech Home Kitchens
Moderator: Sarah Junek, Writer, Archer City
Lydie Faust, Slovacek Sausage Company, Snook
Nicholas Maresh, Old Main Street Bakery, Rosenberg
Dawn Orsak, Svacina Project, Austin
Clint Machann, Texas A&M University, College Station

11:00 am
Interpreting Kitchen Gender Roles in Taverns and Public Houses in Antebellum Texas
Brandon Aniol, Landmark Inn State Historic Site, Castroville

11:45 am
Of Love and Labor: Mexican Women and Food Work in Texas
Monica Perales, University of Houston, Houston

12:30 pm
The Welcome Table Lunch
Hoover Alexander, Hoover’s Cooking, Austin

2:30 pm
The Jemima Code: Women Who Put the Soul in Southern
Toni Tipton-Martin, Writer, Denver, Colorado
with Hoover Alexander, Hoover’s Cooking, Austin
Chris Williams, Lucille’s, Houston

3:30 pm
Riot Grrrills
Moderator: Kristi Willis, Austin
Jessica DeSham Timmons, Redneck Country Club, Seabrook
Meaders Ozarow, Empire Baking, Dallas
Adrian Lipscombe, Knotty Nice Bakery, Austin

Marchesa Hall and Theater (6226 Middle Fiskville Rd., Austin, TX, 78752)
6:30 pm
Happy Hour & Book Signing

7:30 pm
Texas Czech Dinner
Monica Pope, Sparrow Bar + Cookshop, Houston
Saint Arnold Brewing Company, Austin
Duchman Family Winery, Driftwood

8:30 pm
The Czech Melody Trio


2015 Foodways Texas Symposium

“The Texas Mexican Table”
5th Annual Foodways Texas Symposium
May 7-9, 2015
San Antonio, Texas

Join us in San Antonio as we celebrate “The Texas Mexican Table.” Our discussion will cover Mexican food in Texas in its many forms with two full days (May 8-9) of speakers broaching myriad topics. We will learn about Mexican and Native American foodways in Texas that have been appropriated, changed, fused, and influenced while we explore the context and history of their ingredients and styles. Among many other topics, expect to learn a bit about the foods of pre-contact Native Americans, tacos, Cabeza de Vaca, Chili, Tex-Mex, food and Conjunto, tamales, and the influx of various regional Mexican cuisines into Texas over the last several decades. We will also hear an update about our newest oral history project on Texas Mexican foodways. We can’t wait!

As usual, we’ll eat well with seven meals included in your registration. Chefs, artisans, and restaurants from around the state will join in the celebration by preparing meals that connect back to our discussions. The weekend begins Thursday evening, May 7th, with a welcome dinner and introduction to the symposium. Over the course of the next two days, we will serve breakfast, lunch, dinner and drinks between heavy doses of history and culture. The festivities will take place in and around San Antonio at places like The Pearl, La Villita, and Mission San Juan. The official roster of chefs, restaurants, speakers, and panelists will be released in the weeks leading up to the symposium. Here’s a teaser in the meantime:


Gustavo Arrellano, Editor at OC Weekly and Author of Taco USA: How Mexican Food Conquered America, Costa Mesa, CA

Iliana de la Vega, Chef at El Naranjo, Austin

El Corazon, Dallas

Amy Evans, Oral Historian, Houston

Rachel Gonzalez, Department of Mexican American and Latina/o Studies, University of Texas, Austin

Rachel Laudan, Author of Cuisine & Empire: Cooking in World History, Austin

Matt’s Famous El Rancho, Austin

Adán Medrano, Author of Truly Texas Mexican: A Native Culinary Heritage in Recipes, Houston

José Ralat, The Taco Trail Blog and Cowboys & Indians Magazine, Dallas

Armando Rayo, Taco Journalism Blog, Co-Author of Austin Breakfast Tacos, Austin

Ellen Riojas-Clark, Division of Bicultural-Bilingual Studies, University of Texas, San Antonio

Alston Thoms, Department of Anthropology, Texas A&M University, College Station

Robb Walsh, Author of The Chili Cookbook (forthcoming), Houston


Farm to Market 2014

March 20-22, 2014
Bryan-College Station, Texas

2014 Foodways Texas Symposium Schedule
Subject to change

Thursday, March 20
The Veranda (Bryan)

Registration Happy Hour

Marvin Bendele, Foodways Texas Executive Director

Texas Spring Picnic
Molly McCook, Ellerbe Fine Foods, Fort Worth

Friday, March 21
Texas A&M Agrilife Center

Welcome Breakfast
Brian Light, Ronin Cooking, Bryan

Dr. Larry Boleman, Deputy Vice Chancellor and Special Assistant to the President, Texas A&M University
Farm to Market 2014 Primer
Marvin Bendele, Foodways Texas Executive Director, Austin

Defining Local / Organic
Benjamin Mason, Down House, Houston
Leslie McKinnon, Organic Certification Consulting, San Marcos
Brad Stufflebeam, Home Sweet Farm, Brenham
Susie Marshall (Moderator), GROW North Texas, Dallas

The Miracle of Feeding Cities
Robyn Metcalfe, The University of Texas, Austin

Texas Terroir
Dr. Justin Scheiner, Texas A&M University, College Station

Gulf Coast Lunch
Randy Evans, Haven, Houston

Tuscan Texas
Saundra Winokur, Sandy Oaks Olive Orchard, Elmendorf
Paula Disbrowe (Moderator), Tribeza, Austin

The Texas Grapefruit in 2014
Dr. John da Graca, Texas A&M University, Kingsville Citrus Center, Weslaco
Dennis Holbrook, South Texas Organics, Weslaco
Laura Davenport (moderator), Houston

The Farm at Ronin Cooking (Bryan)

Happy Hour Farm Tour

Farm Tour

Dinner on the Farm
Todd Duplechan, Lenoir, Austin

Saturday, March 22
Texas A&M Agrilife Center

Texas Toast Breakfast
Confituras, Austin
Salt and Time, Austin
Empire Baking Company, Dallas
Blue Heron Farm, Fayetteville

Foodways Texas 2014-15
Elizabeth Engelhardt, The University of Texas, Austin
Mary Kimbrough, Food Roots, Dallas

Seito Saibara and Texas Rice
Todd Romero, The University of Houston


Rice and Water
Jay Davis, Coastal Rice and Futures, Inc., East Bernard
Neena Satija, Texas Tribune, Austin
Dr. Ted Wilson, Agrilife Research Center, Beaumont
MM Pack (moderator), Austin

On the Move: Black Growers in the City
Naya Jones, The University of Texas, Austin

The Texas Winter Garden Lunch
Jesse Perez, Arcade Midtown Kitchen, San Antonio

Introduction to the Shankleville Oral History Project
Marvin Bendele, Foodways Texas, Austin

Texas Food and Texas Swing
Jason Mellard, Center for Texas Music History, San Marcos


Innovative Urban Farming
Max Elliott, Urban Roots, Austin
James Jeffers, Eat the Yard, Dallas
Colleen O’Donnell, Plant It Forward, Houston
Kristi Willis (Moderator), Austin

The Veranda (Bryan)

Happy Hour & Book Signing

Farewell Dinner
Sharon Hage, Dallas

2013 Foodways Texas Symposium

April 4-6, 2013

Our Barbecue, Ourselves, the 3rd Annual Foodways Texas symposium will explore the past, present, and potential of smoked meat in Texas and its intimate connections to Texas cultural history and identity. As we feast on plates from around the state, we’ll consider what we can learn from barbecue as both meal and process. What can both the meat and the dishes served alongside it tell us about our history? How have traditions and techniques from diverse heritages intersected to create today’s Texas barbecue? How is the way we consume barbecue and barbecue culture being affected by changing technologies and food ideologies? Join us in Austin, April 4-6, 2013, as we eat, think, and talk our way from pasture to pit to plate. 
2013 Symposium Program
Thursday, April 4th
Saengerrunde Hall

Registration Happy Hour

Dr. Gregory Vincent

The Texas Two Meat Plate

Aaron Franklin, Franklin Barbecue
David Norman, Easy Tiger Bake Shop & Beer Garden

Politics of Barbecue in Texas

Joe Nick Patoski

Lifetime Achievement Award and Film Screening

Friday, April 5th
Saengerrunde Hall

Kolache Breakfast

Revival Market

Welcome Remarks

“Barbecue” Etymologized
Marvin Bendele

Southern Roots of Texas Community Barbecue

Robb Walsh

Red Soda Water, Watermelon, and Swine
Toni Tipton Martin

The New Business of Barbecue (Panel)

Aaron Franklin
Daniel Delaney
Addie Broyles (moderator)

An Ode to the 1015 Onion

Renee Studebaker

Letzte Bissen Lunch

Jesse Griffiths, Dai Due
Raw Onion Tasting

Counters to Kill Floors: Shared Histories of Barbecue and Butchering

Kara Wentworth

A Tour of History and Place: a Central Texas Meat Market

Bryan Bracewell
Virginia Wood

The Barbecue Road Trip (Panel)

Daniel Vaughn
Tim Byres
Jordan Breal
Rien Fertel (moderator)

Book Signing

Goode Company Gulf Coast Barbecue

Levi Goode, Goode Company
Adam Saxenian & Bryan Caswell, Reef
Kristine Kittrell, Mulberry

Saturday, April 6th
University of Texas Campus

Texas Boxed Breakfast

Patina Green Home and Market

Visualizing Barbecue Culture

Wyatt McSpadden
Jody Horton
Rufus Lovett
Okay Mountain Artist Collective
Andrea Mellard (moderator)

The Idea of the Pitmaster

John T. Edge

Into the Wild: Game, Fire, Smoke (Panel)

Jesse Griffiths
Georgia Pelligrini
Kelly Yandell (moderator)

French Legation Museum
Texas Back Yard Barbecue sponsored by Louisiana Foods

Tiffany Derry

University of Texas Campus
A Whole Meal, Start to Finish

Tomás Morin

Here’s the Rub: Music, Barbecue, and This Thing Called Texan

Jason Mellard

The Greening of the Pit: Barbecue and Sustainability

Ed Dougal
Jeff Savell
Lisa Powell (moderator)

French Legation Museum
The Republic of Barbecue Feast

Justin Fourton, Pecan Lodge
Greg Gatlin, Gatlin’s BBQ
Patrick Martin, Martin’s Bar-B-Que Joint
Wayne Mueller, Louie Mueller Barbecue
Hugo Ortega, Hugo’s Regional Mexican Cuisine

Music on the Porch

Jenny and the Corn Ponies

2012 Foodways Texas Symposium


Texas Preserved
2012 Foodways Texas Symposium
March 23-25, 2012
Austin, Texas

Over the course of 2 1/2 days during Texas Preserved , our second Foodways Texas symposium, we will explore the ways we preserve Texas (as a region, as an idea) in our food and the ways we preserve food in Texas. We’ll talk about preservation in our pastures, on our farms, in our kitchens, and in the stories we tell around the dinner table. We’ll discuss what we literally preserve in the mason jars in our cupboards and witness some of those preservation techniques. The weekend’s sessions will include a broad range of topics faithful to our theme, including a canning demo by Confituras owner Stephanie McClenny along with a little history regarding fruits and vegetables unique to Texas. We’ll hear from the folks behind the Shrimp Boat Projects out of Houston, and a group of intrepid Austin historians out to collect stories from iconic restaurants around the state. Experts from around the state will update us on this historic drought and its effect on different segments of our food economy, while an expert panel of craft brewers will discuss the world of Texas breweries and help us launch our Craft Brewery oral history archive. Along the way we’ll sample artisanal wares from all across the state of Texas.

Registration includes lunch and dinner on Friday and Saturday as well as a Sunday Chuck Wagon Brunch from Tom Perini of Perini Ranch Steakhouse. In addition to Perini, our chefs for the weekend include Justin Yu of Oxheart Restaurant in Houston cooking up the week’s catch from Louisiana Food’s Total Catch Market, Matt McCallister of Campo Modern Country Bistro (now of FT33) in Dallas preparing a luncheon featuring goat from Windy Hill Farm and produce from Springdale Farm, Sonya Cote of East Side Showroom and Hillside Farmacy in Austin treating us to an 1840s farm dinner onsite at Boggy Creek Farm in east Austin, and John Mueller from JMueller BBQ serving up his legendary brisket at The Pearl sponsored dinner at Fiesta Gardens. Plan to be well-fed and satisfied when you trek back home on Sunday.

The Blanton Museum of Art Auditorium will host our daytime speakers and panels while our meals and other special events will take place at spots in and around Austin. We’re still finalizing some details so expect more information soon including accommodations and directions to our venues.

2012 Symposium Program

Friday, March, 23
Blanton Museum Auditorium

Registration & Coffee

Dean Randy Diehl, College of Liberal Arts, University of Texas at Austin
Marvin Bendele, Executive Director, Foodways Texas
Elizabeth Engelhardt, Associate Professor, Department of American Studies, University of Texas at Austin

A Short But Not Always Sweet History of Sugar in Texas
MM Pack, Food Writer and Private Chef

The Work of Gulf Coast Regional Food Culture
Zachary Moser & Eric Leshinsky, Shrimp Boat Projects
Priscilla Weeks, Environmental Anthropologist

Fiesta Gardens

Coastal Bycatch Luncheon
Justin Yu, Oxheart Restaurant, Houston
Sponsored by Louisiana Foods

Blanton Museum Auditorium

Presentation of 2012 Foodways Texas Lifetime Achievement Award

Preserving the Rich Culture of Drinking in the South

Bobby Heugel, Anvil Bar & Refuge, Houston

Putting Up Texas (demo & discussion)
Stephanie McClenny, Confituras, Austin
MM Pack, Food Writer and Private Chef

Telling Stories Over a Pint: The Foodways Texas Craft Brewery Oral History Archive
Niko Tonks (Moderator), Foodways Texas Craft Brewery Oral Historian and Home Brewer
Brock Wagner, Founder, Saint Arnold’s Brewery, Houston
Fiesta Gardens

Book Signing
Texas Artisan Market

Central Texas Barbecue Heritage Dinner
Meat by John Mueller, JMueller BBQ, Austin
Sides by Hoover Alexander, Hoover’s Cooking, Austin
Sponsored by The Pearl Brewery

Saturday March 24
The Blanton Museum Auditorium

Feast or Famine: The Effects of Drought on the Texas Food Supply
Jessica Dupuy (Moderator), Freelance Writer and Cookbook Author, Austin
Jim Gossen, President and CEO, Louisiana Foods, Houston
Neal Newsom, Founder, Newsom Vineyards, Plains
Jeff Savell, Professor, Department of Animal Science, Texas A&M University, College Station
Raymond Slade, Certified Professional Hydrologist, Austin

Food Through the Camera’s Lens
Penny De Los Santos, Photographer

Country Food Comes To Town
Rebecca Sharpless, Associate Professor, Department of History, Texas Christian University

Springdale Farm

Urban Garden, Modern Goat
Matt McCallister, Campo Modern Country Bistro, Dallas
Sponsored by Greenling

The Blanton Museum Auditorium

Texas Iconic Restaurant Oral History Project
Elizabeth Engelhardt, Associate Professor, Department of American Studies, University of Texas at Austin, along with Letisha Brown, Jennifer Doane, Andrew Gansky, Amanda Gray, Scott Pryor, Jennifer Rafferty, Nick Roland, Kirsten Ronald, Gavin Schwan, Sherri Sheu, Kathryn Sutton

Heritage Breeds and Sustainable Farming
Karla Loeb (Moderator),
Morgan Weber, Revival Market, Houston
Craig Haney, Stone Barns Center for Food & Agriculture, Pocantico Hills, NY
Taylor Boetticher, Fatted Calf, Napa, CA

The Future of Soul Food?
NNaya Jones, Ph.D. Student, Department of Geography and the Environment, University of Texas at Austin
Kevin Thomas, Assistant Professor, Department of Advertising, University of Texas at Austin Hoover Alexander, Hoover’s Restaurant and Hoover’s Soular Garden, Austin
Boggy Creek Farm

1840s Farm Dinner
Sonya Cote, East Side Showroom & Hillside Farmacy, Austin

Sunday March 25

Symposium Wrap-up
Marvin Bendele, Executive Director, Foodways Texas

Chuck Wagon Lore
Tom Perini, Perini Ranch Steakhouse, Buffalo Gap

Chuck Wagon Brunch
Tom Perini, Perini Ranch Steakhouse, Buffalo Gap


2011 Foodways Texas Annual Symposium


Gulf Coast Gathering
2011 Foodways Texas Symposium
February 25-26, 2011
Galveston, Texas

We take the word gathering as our signpost for this first Foodways Texas Symposium. We gather together as people interested in the preservation, promotion, and celebration of the diverse foodways of Texas. A family reunion, as it were, gathered down at the water, we will eat and visit and learn. We gather to harvest the food of our gulf coast, the plants and animals that make up the bounty of Texas’ land and sea. Those harvests, nets, and hauls will draw our attention as we learn from and about the people who have gathered for us for so long. We gather also by inviting in our unique Texas food stories, especially looking out for the forgotten or almost vanished or heritage practices and people up and down the changing gulf coast. We gather together people and communities to listen, learn, debate, and engage. Please join us as we begin our Foodways Texas adventure at Gulf Coast Gathering, our first annual symposium in Galveston, Texas.

2011 Symposium Program Schedule

Friday, February 25th
Texas Seaport Museum

5:30    Registration and Libations

6:45    Welcome
Marvin Bendele

7:00    Lifetime Achievement Award Presentation

7:30    Dockside Dinner
Tim Byres of Smoke in Dallas

Saturday, February 26th

Blanton Museum Auditorium

9:00    Continental Breakfast

9:30    Touring the Wild Texas Coast
Joe Nick Patoski

10:15  What’s in a Name?: The Ways of Food in Texas
Elizabeth Engelhardt & Amy Evans Streeter

11:00  Break

11:15   The Strangest Thing in the Nets: Bycatch, “Trashfish,” and Gulf Sustainability
Jenny Wang (moderator), Bryan Caswell, Jesse Griffiths, and P. J. Stoops

12:15 A Day with Oysters: Photo Exhibit
Jody Horton

12:30  Louisiana Foods Lunch on the Grounds
Chris Shepherd of Catalan in Houston

2:00    Honky-Tonk Potlucks and Gulf Dive Bars
John Nova Lomax

2:45    Vietnamese Fishing Communities Along the Texas Coast
Ellen Sweets

3:45    From Pepper Grove to San Antonio Bay: The Secret History of Oyster Appellations
Robb Walsh (moderator), Jon Rowley, Dr. Sammy Ray, Jim Gossen, Tracy Woody, and Misho Ivic


6:30    Oyster Appellation Tasting and Texas Cocktail Hour

7:30    Foodways Texas: Where We Are and Where We’ll Go
Marvin Bendele

8:00    Taste of Galveston
Casey Gaido of Gaido’s in Galveston


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